My True Journey Began With a Traditional Powder Called Ubtan

Interview with artisan perfumer Nitish Dixit from Perito Moreno

Mr. Dixit, thank you for taking the time to speak with us. If I understand correctly from your Instagram profile, you are currently in the midst of the final preparations for the launch of a new fragrance for Perito Moreno.

Thanks for hosting me here! Indeed, we’re gearing up to introduce two new fragrances under the Perito Moreno brand.

Tell me about the logistics of a niche perfume launch.

It’s quite challenging, especially for smaller brands. The key issue is that perfumes are classified as hazardous goods, restricting air transport. Only a handful of airlines handle it, and they are charging exorbitant prices. So, most of us rely on sea shipping. It’s all about building solid relationships with shipping companies for safe and cost-effective distribution. The perfume’s make-up — the mix of alcohol, water, and oils — plays a big part too. Different countries have their own rules about shipping alcohol by air. But changing a perfume’s formula just for shipping? Does not seem practical.

You must have had to build up a distribution network. Where will the new fragrances be available for purchase?

Absolutely. For me it’s vital to have our scents in physical stores. People need to experience them first-hand. So, a strong distribution network is key.

What about online stores?

Most retail shops are also online these days. We’ve partnered with Splash Fragrance and are looking beyond India. I’ll keep everyone updated on Instagram and our website when we go live on new platforms.

Perito Moreno is a majestic glacier in Argentina. What inspired you to name your brand after it?

The Perito Moreno Glacier is fascinating — it’s a rarity as one of the few in the world that is still growing. It’s admired for its periodic advances and retreats, mirroring the evolving nature of our fragrances and their unique interaction with each individual. Our aim is to create distinct, standout scents, much like the glacier’s stunning beauty. And well, the trademark was still available, so that’s a bonus!

With your former fragrance brand Dixit & Zac, which you co-own with Zakir Laskar, you have created a wide range of perfumes within four years. Please walk us through your creative process from the initial idea to the final formula.

Crafting a perfume is an art and it takes time. We start with brainstorming, picking out the right fragrance notes and materials. From the get-go to the final product, it can take anywhere from a couple of weeks to several months. It’s crucial to let the blend sit for a few weeks to make sure everything melds perfectly. Especially working with natural elements, like oud, demands patience and expertise. After blending, the perfume needs about 40 days to cure, to let all the ingredients mature together. We also need to think about how a fragrance feels emotionally. It should evoke certain feelings, maybe even memories. Of course, we also have to be mindful of safety standards, making sure our perfumes are both memorable and safe.

You are absolutely right about working with oud in complex mixtures. In my experience, oud, much like patchouli, tends to grow stronger during the maturation process and can dominate the fragrance profile after a few weeks. Do you enjoy working with sandalwood?

I absolutely adore sandalwood — it’s my go-to note and material in perfumery. It’s incredibly versatile and adds a unique touch whether paired with florals, spices, or animalic notes. We often start with a sandalwood base and build around it. I’m actually collaborating with a renowned Indian incense maker with 50 years of experience for my new incense brand under Dixit Artisan. It’s still a secret, but I hope to be able to reveal it soon.

I see, you are trying to merge the Indian tradition and deep connection with Sandalwood with Western fragrance notes. Your current flagship perfume, King’s Empire, is such a scent that pairs Indian Sandalwood with Italian Bergamot, Pink Pepper, and the white musk accord, which is very popular in the West. Will your upcoming Bob Dylan inspired fragrance also follow this crossover concept?

The Bob Dylan blend is very close to my heart. His lyrics have been a profound influence in my life. The blend is a magical mix, with balsamic notes like Peru and Tolu balsam, combined with rich tobacco. It’s balanced with fresh bergamot and a mix of Indian spices. The full note profile is still under wraps.

The tobacco note makes total sense. Indeed, Bob Dylan seems to be smoking in almost every picture taken of him in the 1960s. He appears to have switched to cigars recently. Are other notes in “Not Dark Yet”, love the name, by the way, also subtle references to the musician’s life?

“Not Dark Yet” is indeed a tribute to Bob Dylan’s unwavering spirit and is inspired by the song of the same name. The main player here is tobacco leaf, a note that’s spicy and creamy at the same time. We’ve added cinnamon leaf, nutmeg, clove, and black cardamom from India, creating a rich and layered scent. There’s also amber, balsam, and labdanum in there, rounding it out with a leathery, robust base. It’s in its final stages now and should be perfect for the coming winter season.

The list of notes indeed sounds like a warm and spicy winter fragrance. The timing for the launch is well-suited. Where do you find inspiration outside of music?

Inspiration comes from everywhere, often from memories. Our upcoming incense brand revives an old formula, giving it our unique twist. Having a creative mindset is crucial in our field. Typically, gourmand fragrances in the Western market are dominated by notes like vanilla, strawberry and various milky, fruity scents. However, I’m drawing inspiration from different cultures for my gourmand range, incorporating flavors like Gulab Jamun, Lassi and Rabdi.

Then there’s materials like the Hatkora citrus fruit, a relatively uncharted scent. We’re always exploring, pushing boundaries with both traditional and avant-garde concepts.

I like your approach to gourmand fragrances. Western perfumery and perfume consumers can still learn a lot from other cultures. We live in exciting times. When and how did your passion for fragrances and perfumery begin? Do you have a particularly vivid memory of a scent from your childhood?

My perfume journey started in school with a modest allowance. I began with deodorants, but my true journey into the world of scents began with a traditional powder called ‘Ubtan’. This exquisite blend is used for refreshing baths during Diwali. It’s a mix of sandalwood and vetiver powders, fragrant clays, floral essences, woods and spices. Accompanying this was a massage oil, a heavenly mixture of sandalwood, rose, jasmine oils and a traditional spice blend diluted in a carrier oil.

My father’s remarkable collection of attars was another early influence. I recall exploring single-note fragrances like rose, Keoda, jasmine and more complex attars like Shamama, Rubab, Sehenshah, and sandalwood-based compositions. I also remember the natural scent of jasmine and the aromas of incense sticks and ‘Dhoop’ at home. These memories have shaped my passion and exploration in perfumery. A distinct memory from my childhood is the natural scent of jasmine. I remember the enchanting aroma of South Indian girls adorned with jasmine ‘Gajra’ in their hair, a traditional and fragrant accessory.

We asked our followers to send in some questions too. One of them, Esteban, asks: “What unexpected challenges have you faced and how did you overcome them?”

In India, the perfume industry faces unique challenges. We have to deal with suppliers’ minimum order quantities, which can be a hurdle. It’s hard to find suppliers of high-quality branded packaging. Sourcing quality materials like jasmine oil can also be tricky, especially with high import duties, ranging from 48% to 150%, making it a costly affair.

Working with volatile materials like citrus oils also has a steep learning curve due to their quick oxidation. Compliance with international regulations is another big challenge. But overcoming these hurdles is part of the journey and, in a way, quite satisfying. It reinforces the old saying, “where there’s a will, there’s a way”, emphasizing the importance of persistence and determination in our business.

This interview has been edited for length and clarity.